Dynobike Quarterly Newsletter
165 hp 02 Yamaha R1
Some of it does have some interest as I was surprised by the response to the article on fuel injection, so I have taken it another step in this issue and installed it on our Yamaha R1 Formula Extreme race bike featured earlier this year in Streetbike. Yamaha Australia was kind enough to select us as one of a handful of race teams to be supplied a pre production 2002 R1 for this years Formula Extreme series, which gave us the opportunity to see how the EM2 performed in the real world and also to find out how much power could be extracted from the new Yamaha R1.
But first about the bike. It is most definitely an improvement over the last model, which is some feat, considering how good that model was. This is a very compact bike making the GSXR look bulky and overweight in appearance, yet feeling like a 600 to ride with all the advantages of a 1000cc. As soon as you jump on it the feeling is one of confidence, control and balance. The CV style injector body's work well with fast, and controllable throttle response.
The throttle bodies have diaphragm slides, which are vacuum operated just like a carburettor except that they don't govern the fuel requirements, only the amount of air which is allowed to flow past them. They are somewhat restricted though, being fitted with springs pushing against them to restrict how fast they can open. You don't need to be a rocket scientist to figure out that this method will soften the throttle response making it less aggressive when you're trying to get the power on early, well in theory anyway.
The suspension like all modern sports bikes is way too soft if you ride aggressively but we might save that for another day. In short, easily rectified by simply lightening your wallet by a fair and reasonable amount to achieve the feel and ride you're looking for.
Our bike with only 200 km on the clock had about 135 hp in stock trim, but I am sure that if time had allowed for more kilometres it would have been closer to 140 hp. We then fitted a Hindle full system from last years model which fitted up beautifully, the big question was, would it work on the new model. As Hindle was still working on the current model pipe and Round 1 of the Formula Extreme series was only 4 weeks away you can imagine that everyone was a little nervous. Needless to say when the power came up to 150 hp Steve suddenly felt a need to consume copious amounts of alcohol, and in all the excitement you would have thought it was his first born. Once we had all calmed down the reality set in as to how much work there was still to do in the time available. In fact there was only 2 weeks to do it all because it had to be in Sydney the week before Round 1 so that Streetbike could do their photo shoot. The race was truly on.
With our confidence restored the engine was pulled out and the top end stripped down. In what is typical R1 fashion the valve and squish clearances were quite conservative which I always like to see, because it gives us plenty of room to move while looking for good reliable horsepower. Remember it must get through Fridays practice, 2 qualifiers on Saturday and four races on Sunday, not to mention a practice day at Winton so the rider can get acquainted, and some road kilometres can be put on it.
Naturally we ported and flow tested the head, cleaned up the valve area, and machined the head to bring up the compression, which can't go too high because the rules only allow for pump fuel. Every thing was running smoothly, and on time, in fact too smoothly which I’ll get to soon. At this stage we were still using standard cams because the difference it would make was only small, it's also important not to change too much in one go to ensure everything is working well at each stage of development.
By the end of week 2 we were just about ready for some testing, the biggest thing letting us down was a lack of fibre glass fairings so the original ones were fitting, after all it was only to clock up some road kilometres and get a feel for how it was all going. So off we went to Winton raceway where everything was running well up until about lunchtime when disaster struck. As any mechanic the last thing you want to see is the rider pushing his bike back to the pits and of course you immediately think the worst. When he said it was running fine and then just stopped for no reason but that some funny light was flashing on the dash I breathed a quiet sigh of relief. The flashing light was to indicate an electronics fault, the only problem was with no technical information all we could do was check the wiring and make sure our EM2 was not causing the fault by taking it out of the loop.
There was no other choice but to make our way back to the shop, make some phone calls and nut out the fault. Adding to the problem was the fact that back at the shop it ran fine again and there were no codes flashing on the dash. This was a very serious problem as it had could rear it's head again if the fault was not found.
In the meantime because we were waiting on technical information from Yamaha, there was no choice but to continue until the fault re- occurred. Dyno day came and while working with the EM2, (see last news letter), to change the fuel map it missed a couple of times and then died in the arse with the same fault codes flashing on the dash. After some frantic phone calls to Yamaha we eventually tracked down a diagnostics sheet explaining what the codes meant. With this information in hand the problem was eventually traced to a switch which is suppose to kill the engine if it is lying on its side but for some reason was confused about which way was up.
After some brainstorming and much head scratching, we worked out a way to bypass the faulty part without disturbing any of the electronics. With the problem finally solved it was on with remapping using the EM2. The air box on this model bike requires a lot of attention to get the most out of the modifications made. This is where the EM2 came in very handy, adjustments were endless and very effective as the final result shows, see below. Most of the mapping work was down in the upper part of the rev range with wider throttle settings, mainly because it's this area where it will spend all it's time on a race track, and of course we were by this stage running out of time. Had it been a road bike more emphasis would have been on the lower end of the scale.
The end result speaks for itself and bear in mind no after markets pistons,
valves or cams were used, and except for the manual work the internals
are all standard. The bottom end wasn't even touched.
Brake lines do they need servicing and maintenance? The simple answer is yes, after all your safety is in their hands. Most bikes are manufactured with rubber brake hoses which even when new leave the brake feeling a little spongy and vague. Though not a huge issue the problem does get progressively worse with age and racetrack or ride day use.
Take a minute to think about what is happening to your rubber lines under heavy use and age. Rubber is a very flexible material by its very nature, great for routing fuel lines where there is limited space. But the trade off is that when you pull the brake lever in the rubber is expanding and contracting, often this is clearly visible. The other issue is that when heat is applied rubber becomes softer and even more flexible, try running a hose under a hot tap for a minute and you'll see what I mean. So the brake lever gets softer and may even come into the bar causing vague feel and poor braking performance. As age and ultraviolet light works it's magic making then brittle this problem only gets worse often rendering brakes virtually useless and running the risk of rupturing lines. For this reason the manufacturer recommend replacement every 3 – 4 years. But of course not many people are aware of this and tend to spend more time bleeding these types of lines in the belief that they have air trapped in them. I have even witnessed mechanics making the same mistake.
Of course you can just ignore the problem and keep riding, after all the bike appears to slow down when pressure is applied to the lever, so you put half a km between you and guy in front, NOT.
There is a simple solution and it's not very expensive. They are called steel braided brake lines made from stainless steel, they don't flex or perish, last a lifetime and give excellent feel and control without any fade or vagueness. They're also a good-looking accessories worth adding to any bike having the benefit of making it safer to ride. Personally they are the first thing I change when buying a new or secondhand bike. Once you've used them you'll never go back.
Prices do vary, some can be bought model specific or they can be made up to your individual requirements. A typical kit for the front of any twin disc brake setup is $195.00 plus fitting, or if you are confidant you can fit them yourself.
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